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When a part breaks on your BMW, you probably want to replace it with the best replacement part available to ensure it doesn’t break again, right? Cars break frequently, which creates a huge market for replacement car parts, which ultimately results in there being a lot of companies that manufacture parts, which can make it difficult in determining which part is the best, highest quality, and most reliable part for your car. In the BMW world, you will generally hear about 4 different types of parts: Genuine BMW parts, OEM BMW parts, OE BMW parts, and Aftermarket BMW parts. We’re going to detail out the difference between all these parts options so that you can make the most informed BMW part buying decision.   What are Genuine BMW Parts? Buyers who don’t care about price, only quality, always ask for the Genuine BMW parts. Genuine BMW parts are branded by BMW, however, it does not mean that they are manufactured by BMW. BMW outsources the majority of the part manufacturing, so very rarely is a genuine part ever actually manufactured by BMW. Genuine BMW parts are manufactured by, and only by, the manufacturer that BMW chose to manufacture the part. BMW holds these companies to extremely high quality standards, so the parts are usually of the best, original equipment, quality. However, these parts are the most expensive parts because they are BMW branded! Which means, you are paying more simply for the comfort of having the brand on the part that you buy. These are the exact same parts you would get if you went and bought them at a local BMW dealership.   What are OE BMW Parts? OE BMW parts are exactly the same as Genuine BMW parts, but they have the logo or brand scratched off of them. An OE manufacturer might make 10,000 control arms, all with “BMW” branded on them, but then BMW says “oh, well we only need 7,000 of them”. So 3,000 control arms sit in the manufacturers inventory that dealerships aren’t going to buy. What do they do with them? The manufacturer isn’t allowed to sell these to anyone other than BMW, because it has the brand on the part and doing so would be a licensing violation. So, they physically scratch the BMW brand off of the product, so that they are not violating licensing agreements, and then sell these to parts stores like ourselves to sell to end consumers. These parts are usually more difficult to come by as there is always a limited quality of leftover, unsold parts that BMW didn’t buy direct from the manufacturer.   What are OEM BMW Parts? This is where it might get somewhat confusing. OEM BMW parts are parts manufactured by companies that are OE suppliers to BMW. In some cases this is the same manufacturer that is making the Genuine and OE parts, and sometimes it isn’t. Because these parts are manufactured by someone who is an OE provider to BMW, the company making them has been vetted and verified under BMW’s stringent quality requirements. In short, OEM BMW parts are made of the highest quality standards, and are specifically approved by BMW. When you purchase BMW parts online, the vast majority of the time you are getting an OEM BMW part.   What are Aftermarket BMW Parts? Aftermarket parts are parts that are not made by OE or OEM manufacturers. This means they are not held to BMW’s rigorous quality standards. However, this does not mean that the parts are worse than the OEM counterparts. Aftermarket parts are usually going to be the lowest cost option, which is great for people on a budget. While aftermarket does not mean it’s a bad part, some do have a reputation for being low quality and failing more frequently that OEM parts. With that being said, there are some aftermarket parts that are better than the OEM ones. It just depends. If you are on a budget, these parts are for you.   What do we recommend? We generally don't push the Genuine BMW brand because it tends to be overly expensive, mainly due to the BMW name, even though in many cases it is of equivalent quality to OEM brands. Overall, we prefer OE and OEM parts as they offer the best balance of quality and price. List of Most Common OE BMW Part Manufacturers: Bosch MANN Febi Bilstein group Elring NGK Denso Brembo Lemforder Mhale Valeo Texter Borg-Warner Hengst Delphi Sachs Bilstien TRW ATE

Owning a BMW comes with the responsibility of ensuring its high-performance standards are maintained. One of the common issues BMW owners face is oxygen (O2) and nitrogen oxide (NOx) sensor clogging and errors, which can lead to poor fuel efficiency, increased emissions, and expensive repairs.   In this guide, we’ll show you how to address this issue effectively using Liqui Moly products and best practices for maintaining your vehicle's health. What Causes Oxygen/NOx Sensor Issues in BMWs?   ·      Carbon and soot buildup in the exhaust system,   ·      Poor fuel quality,   ·      Inefficient combustion,   ·      Skipping regular oil changes,   ·      Faulty catalytic converters,     These problems not only damage sensors but also impact the catalytic system and engine performance. Step 1: Cleaning the Catalytic and Exhaust System   To resolve clogging and restore the efficiency of your oxygen/NOx sensors, start by cleaning the exhaust system using these Liqui Moly products:   1.  Liqui Moly Catalytic System Cleaner   Breaks down carbon deposits in the catalytic converter and exhaust pipes.   Restores exhaust flow and sensor accuracy. (Tip: Use this cleaner every 5,000 km to maintain optimal performance.) 2. Injection Cleaner   Cleans the fuel injectors for efficient combustion restoring performance and durability.   Prevents unburned fuel from clogging sensors. 3. Octane Plus   Improves fuel quality while raising the octane levels for cleaner combustion.   Reduces buildup that can harm your sensors. (Tip: Use Octane Plus whenever you refuel with lower-grade Petrol.)   Step 2: Best Practices for a Quality Oil Change   A proper oil change is crucial for sensor longevity and engine performance. Here’s how to ensure the best results:   1. Perform an Engine Flush   Use Liqui Moly Engine Flush to remove sludge and old deposits from inside the engine before adding new oil.   Promotes cleaner combustion and reduces contaminants in the exhaust. 2. Choose High-Quality Engine Oil   Select a Liqui Moly oil grade that matches your BMW’s specifications.   High-quality oil reduces carbon buildup, protecting sensors and the catalytic converter. 3. Replace Essential Service Parts   Always use genuine or high-quality oil filters, spark plugs, and air filters during an oil change.   Clogged filters can introduce impurities, reducing engine and sensor performance.     How These Practices Help Your BMW's Oxygen/NOx Sensors   By incorporating the above steps into your BMW’s maintenance routine, you can:   Extend the life of your oxygen and NOx sensors.   Improve engine efficiency and fuel economy.   Reduce harmful emissions. Shop Now for the Right Liqui Moly Products

All engine coolant is not created equal. In a similar fashion to engine oil, coolant is a complex mixture of chemicals and minerals designed to keep your engine running as cool as possible. Aluminum and cast iron, the most common engine block materials, require different properties from the coolant to stay efficient and corrosion-free, leading to many different forms of coolant. Using the wrong kind can accelerate water pump wear and clog coolant passage ports, so the best way to take care of your car’s cooling system is to stick with the manufacturer’s specified formula. What does your car need and why? What color is your coolant supposed to be, and does that really matter? If any of those questions sound familiar, you’re in the right place. What Is Engine Coolant? Coolant, in its most basic principle, is a liquid pumped through the engine to keep it from becoming too hot and damaging itself. In many cases and for many years in the early days of cars, engine coolant was simply distilled water. While water works just fine under certain conditions, the ease at which it freezes and boils is too much for the engine to use safely. Boiling water is not an effective coolant, and frozen water inside an engine can crack t he iron or aluminum surrounding it.   Coolant as we know it today, also called antifreeze, is a kind of “super water.” Within it are many chemical compounds, like acids, phosphates, and silicates, but the most important is Glycol. When added to water, Glycol raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point, stabilizing it for use in almost every application. The remaining chemicals are lubricants that help the water pump and thermostat function effortlessly, corrosion inhibitors, and dyes (orange, green, red, or blue). Those dyes are likely what you know your coolant is, but not all colors mean the same thing.  The corrosion inhibitors are critical to the type of material the engine is made from and are categorized into four types. Engine Coolant Corrosion Inhibitors: Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) Organic Acid Technology (OAT) Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) Silicate Organic Acid Technology (Si-OAT) As critical as those different formulas are, they aren't regularly referred to by them. Instead, the largely accepted na ming scheme comes from BASF. As one of the largest chemical producers in the world, BASF's Glysantin line of engine coolants is largely used as a general differentiator between coolant types. Their nami ng scheme is the originator of the G05, G40, and G48 designation, among others. Below, you'll find those Glysantin product names attached to each respective manufacturer's coolant specifications for ease of understanding.  Engine Coolant Types The corrosion inhibitors make up the bulk of the various chemicals within the coolant. The four main types all use different compositions, giving them different properties suited to different cooling systems.   Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) This type is formed with silicates and phosphates. Silicates provide a protective film that quickly forms on the inside of the system and does a great job protecting it from corrosion. The downfall of this technology is that the additives deplete in a relatively short amount of time. This means that the coolant loses effectiveness and fails to protect the internals after a few years. This type of coolant should be flushed in two-year intervals in order to maintain proper functionality. Following this maintenance schedule will ensure the prolonged life of your cooling system. Below is a radiator with clogged ports due to the build-up of silicate. This can lead to an overheating engine, so consider the perceived cost-benefit you get from skipping coolant flushes versus the cost of a new engine.   Organic Acid Technology (OAT) The newer OAT coolants work a bit differently than the older silicate-based IAT coolants. First off, these coolants don't have any silicates or phosphates. They contain organic salts to protect the cooling system. This means that their service life is extended. This category of antifreeze cannot be used in systems containing yellow metals, meaning older cars with copper and brass cooling system components can not use this type of coolant. Newer cars with aluminum engines and cooling system components are mostly OK. OAT technology was designed in relation to an environmental backlash by various organizations to bring to market coolant products that do not pollute the environment—just as IAT coolants have been doing. OAT introduced longer intervals and thus reduced maintenance costs and a lower environmental impact. Unfortunately, this coolant's performance was not as good as the IAT coolant it was slated to replace. OAT coolant takes a lot longer to coat the system in order to protect it, and any short period of time being exposed to water or moisture would corrode the metal.   Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) HOAT is a term that combines IAT technologies and OAT technologies together. Generally designed for engines that have iron blocks and aluminum heads, most modern coolants for European cars are created with this technology. The European formulas do not contain any phosphates either, as they do not work well with the hard water found in Europe. Common HOAT Coolant Formulas: G05 Chrysler: MS-9769 Mercedes-Benz: DBL 7700.20 Page 325.0 John Deere: JDM H 24 Leyland: BLS.22.AF.01 Ford North America: WSS-M97B51-A1 G48 (Also known as VW G11) VAG (VW, Audi, Seat, Skoda): TL 774-C BMW: LC-87 Mercedes-Benz: DBL 7700.20 Opel/General Motors: B 040 0240 Porsche: TL 774-C Saab: 6901599   Silicate Organic Acid Technology (Si-OAT) Performance issues with silicate-free OAT led to the development of a new high-performance antifreeze/coolant technology called Si-OAT (Silicate Organic Additive Technology). Basically, this coolant is the best of both worlds—great protection with silicates being re-introduced and longer life with OAT technology. These new Si-OAT products are backward compatible as well. Common Si-OAT Coolant Formulas: G30 (Also known as VW G12 & G12+) VAG: TL 774-D/F Mercedes-Benz: DBL 7700.30 Ford: WSS-M 97B44-D G40 (Also known as VW G12++) VAG: TL 774-G Cummins: CES 14603 MAN (built from 12/2011): MAN 324 Typ Si-OAT Mercedes-Benz (Trucks built from 10/2011): Specification 325.5 Porsche (from 1997): TL 774-G GG40 (Also known as VW G13) VAG: TL 774-J CUNA NC 956-16 BS 6580: 2010 HT12 BMW: LC-18   Engine Coolant Compatability OATs, HOATs, and Si-OATs, am I right? I know that sounds confusing, but you don't need to know the chemical makeup of every fluid in your car; that's an engineer's job. What you do need to know is which coolants can be used together. Carrying around spare fluids is a nice thought, but not everyone has the space for them, so knowing which coolant types that can top off your system in a pinch can save your cooling system. One of the easier rules to remember is that you can not mix IAT and OAT coolants; OATs should stay OAT only, and IAT needs to stay exclusively IAT. You can, however, top off with the correct fluid rated for your car regardless of the color it is produced in; dyes don't matter in this case, though they will change the color. You can also mix Si-OAT fluids with previous generations of fluids as they are backward compatible. G30, G33, G34, G40, and G44 should all be compatible with each other.  G05 and G48 are compatible with each other, regardless of color. However, we advise a switch to G48 after performing a full cooling system drain, flush, and re-fill, due to current availability.    Volkswagen/Audi/Porsche Coolant Specifications Volkswagen/Audi Group is a bit of an outlier compared to other manufacturers in that they've consistently updated their cooling systems, engine materials, and engine coolants over the last three decades. That's resulted in six different potential coolants for your car available in three different colors and a few confusing names. Struggle no more when choosing your next coolant, as this section should be all you need. G11 Coolant Model Years: 1994-1996 VAG Spec: TL 774-C Color: Blue Compatible/Mixable With: G12+, G12++, G13 Negative Effects: None G12 Coolant Model Years: 1996-2000 VAG Spec: TL 774-D Color: Red Compatible/Mixable With: G12+, G12++, G13 Negative Effects: None G12+ Coolant Model Years: 2000-2005 VAG Spec: TL 774-F Color: Violet/Pink Compatible/Mixable With: G11, G12, G12++, G13 Negative Effects: Loss of protection when mixed with G11 and G12 G12++ Coolant Model Years: 2005-2008 VAG Spec: TL 774-G Color: Violet/Pink Compatible/Mixable With: G11, G12, G12+, G13 Negative Effects: Loss of protection when mixed with G11, G12, and G12+ G13 Coolant Model Years: 2008-Present VAG Spec: TL 774-J Color: Violet/Pink Compatible/Mixable With: G11, G12, G12+, G12++ Negative Effects: Loss of protection when mixed with G11, G12, and G12+ G12evo Coolant Model Years: 2022-Present VAG Spec: TL 774-L Color: Violet/Pink Compatible/Mixable With: G11, G12, G12+, G12++ (Not compatible with Diesel Engine Codes CVCA & CRUA found in the model Year 2015 Beetle, Golf, SportWagen, Jetta, Passat, A3) Negative Effects: Brown color when mixed with preceding coolants Unfortunately, these unique specifications may not be available in a pinch, but that’s alright. A standard G40 formulation, like one from Zerex, has proven to be exactly the same as the G12++ formula. That makes it compatible with any VW since the eighties, which is perfect for a quick top-up. Mercedes-Benz Coolant Specifications Over the last three decades or so, Mercedes has used three different coolant variants in their petrol and diesel-powered cars. The oldest is Q1030002, a Yellow or Gold-colored G05 HOAT formula that is no longer available through Mercedes. It may still be available in small quantities through manufacturers like Zerex, but Mercedes recommends you drain and refill with a more modern variant.  Two current versions of Mercedes coolant are available: G48 Coolant (HOAT) Model Years: 2014 and earlier Mercedes Spec: 325.0/326.0 Internal Code: Q1030004 Color: Blue Compatible/Mixable With: G05 (Q1030002, Yellow) Negative Effects: While technically compatible with the older Yellow coolant, the early formula is very old, and any car using it should be drained, flushed, and replaced with the modern Q1030004 fluid G40 Coolant (Si-OAT) Model Years: 2015-Present Mercedes Spec: 325.5/326.5 Internal Code: Q1030005 Color: Pink Compatible/Mixable With: None Negative Effects: Mixing with an older coolant will result in accelerated internal wear on cooling system components. You can use the previous Q1030004 fluid in a Q1030005 factory-filled system ONLY IF the system is drained, flushed, re-drained, and then filled with Q1030004. The protection is nearly identical; however, the Q1030004 is not designed to last and perform as long as the new Q1030005.    BMW/MINI Coolant Specifications BMW is pretty simple when it comes to its coolants. For what seems like forever, BMW has used either an IAT or HOAT coolant formula for all of their vehicles. Up until recently, a blue G48-spec coolant was the only type required. However, beginning a few years ago, BMW switched to a Si-OAT formula called HT12. For whatever reason, this newest formula doesn't follow BASF's Glysantin specification naming scheme, but that might just make it easier to remember and differentiate from other formulas.  G48 Coolant Model Years: 2017 and earlier BMW Spec: N 600 69.0  Color: Blue Compatible/Mixable With: Mercedes Q1030002 and Q1030004, VAG TL 774-C (G11) Negative Effects: None HT12 Coolant Model Years: 2018-Present BMW Spec: N/A  Color: Green Compatible/Mixable With: None Negative Effects: None   Volvo Coolant Specifications The Swedes are either hated or loved for their odd choices and unique style. But when it comes to engine coolant, Volvo has remained consistent. Their only coolant formula is that of a G48-type.  G48 Coolant   Model Years: All of them Volvo Part Numbers: 31338284, 9434699, 3133828, 31439821, 32339856  Color: Green or Blue Compatible/Mixable With: All European-spec G05 and G48 coolants Negative Effects: Ugly brown color if mixing the green and blue   Additional Coolant Facts We can refer back to the late ’90s and early 2000s when most VAG products were filled with G12 coolant that removed silicates from the formula. The formula, over time, began to eat away gaskets and metal components within the cooling system and had led to many leaking heater cores, among other cooling system woes. (They switched out to Si-OAT on the next generation of cars.) Most VAG and Mercedes products in the '90s era, and until today, had Silicate packs built into the expansion tanks that were designed to provide more protection from the system. BMW, Mercedes, and Volvo had been using IAT coolant since the ’80s. Now the formulation changed to a HOAT fluid. Not much has changed in the composition or the specification since. The intervals that they need to be replaced at have, however, been extended all the way from 2 years in the ’80s initially to 3 years to 4 years in the ’90s to now “LIFETIME” in virtually all BMW applications. Guess what is the weak spot of a modern BMW… The cooling system! We wonder why? Electrolysis is a fun by-product of not changing coolant on time, and it has some very negative impacts on all things aluminum. As you can see in the picture in the Si-OAT section, electrical current traveling through the coolant seeking a path of least resistance, found its way out by creating new passages. Not a good thing long-term for your engine and all-aluminum parts in that system.

Mercedes has a long history of designing and developing their own automatic transmissions. Where many companies reach out to dedicated transmission manufacturers, you can find Mercedes units in American and German-made vehicles. The 722.9 was the go-to in the mid-’10s and is found in nearly every Mercedes vehicle, no matter the engine. Although complex in nature, it’s fairly simple to keep after and maintain with a bit of understanding. In this guide, we’ll go over what makes the 722.9 unique, some of its most common issues, how to maintain the transmission, keep issues at bay, and even how to eke out a bit more performance. Mercedes 722.9 Automatic Transmission Overview The Mercedes-Benz 722.9 transmission found its way into a host of chassis bearing the three-pointed star as early as 2005 in the United States and as late as 2017. It’s a traditional automatic design, utilizing a torque converter, a valve body, and many complex hydraulics. It also features some clever tricks that make it much more advanced than its predecessors. The German-designed and manufactured automatic transmission holds seven forward gears and two reverse gears, blending performance and fuel-economy-supporting attributes. Its operating characteristics largely depend on its integrated TCU to learn, memorize, and adjust to the driving style of its owner across its lifespan. Major improvements from the prior 722.6 transmission include a smoother drive, increased fuel economy, and quicker acceleration, all a direct result of adding more gears to the unit and enhanced gear-selection programming and engineering. The Mercedes-Benz 722.9 Transmission At A Glance Seven forward gears, two reverse gears (a snow-focused softer reverse gear and standard reverse) Bimodal; “S” for Sport mode (higher shift points, starts in first gear, allows for manual gear selection) “C” for Comfort (softer shift points, sets off in second gear, fully automatic). Vehicles with off-road capability add a low range. Can skip gears when downshifting to grab the most appropriate gear. TCU control module integrated into the valve body, decreasing wiring and complexity. Continuous adaptation: TCU learns driving styles to adjust shift points and mannerisms infinitely until reset. Aluminum bell housing, magnesium case, aluminum pump plate Torque converter operational in all seven forward speeds Two different models, distinguished by the type of fluids accepted and the style of the transmission pan No dipstick; fluid checked via overflow or aftermarket measuring tool. Self-Adaptation: How Does It Work? The TCU, or Transmission Control Unit, functions just as an engine computer would; continuously adapting shift points and power delivery to the driving style of the operator and the environment the vehicle is in. The 722.9 uses a torque converter, four multi-disc brakes, and three multi-disc clutches for forward movement. Through those components, we see the self-adaptation of the TCU, as it continuously adjusts fluid fill times and clutch pack fluid pressures. These are altered over time by the TCU to compensate for clutch wear and alterations in assembly tolerances. Mercedes Models & Years Equipped with 722.9 Common Mercedes 722.9 Transmission Issues While not a flawless unit, the 722.9 will, fortunately, seldom require an entire replacement when maintained properly, save for some of the 4Matic applications. In the majority of the cases exhibiting temperamental behavior, issues are often remedied with the replacement of the valve body, solenoids, or conductor plate. Typical failure symptoms of any of the components above are on par with the majority of automatic transmission issues. This includes: poor performance harsh shifts while the transmission is cold holding of second gear limp mode noticeably harsh shifts transmission slip generally unpredictable gear changes The first step, given any of the above issues, should generally be to assess the fluid quality and level of the transmission. There are two sensors built into the 722.9 used to warn of low fluid levels, but issues can occur prior to a level low enough to induce a fault code. Simply holding too little fluid can elicit any of the above responses by your 722.9, and when caught early enough, can easily be resolved by topping things off (we will discuss proper temperatures and volumes for the 722.9 below). The longevity of parts will be increased by maintaining a sufficient level of clean fluid in your 722.9 with timely service and maintenance. Should it be deduced that a valve body or conductor plate is the cause of the issue, you'll need the TCU's VGS code. Pull the transmission pan and assess the center-mounted control unit for the VGS code, numbered one, two, or three. VGS1 will require a replacement of both units at once, while VGS2 and VGS3 allow for replacement of the conductor plate while retaining the original valve body (though should this need replacement, the new TCU will need to be coded to the vehicle). In the most extreme circumstances, the torque converter’s locking clutches can demonstrate excessive wear. This is most commonly visible in the form of excessive metal fragment accumulation inside of the pan as well as a fault code (Generally 2511 or 2783) for the inability to actuate or lock the clutches. This is one of the few times replacing the transmission clutch packs, cooler, and transmission cooler thermostat is recommended in a complete overhaul. Disassembly of the unit will be required. In 4Matic variants, we see the distinct issue of an integrated transfer case. The same 134 ATF used in the transmission is fed through the transfer case as well and will inherently be subjected to increased heat exposure in comparison to a rear-drive unit. This also means fluid will shear faster and lose lubricity, accelerating the wear rate of both the transfer case components and transmission internals. Sticking to maintenance intervals is, therefore, a bit more pressing with these models, and should the transfer case fail, you’ll generally find it most lucrative to replace the entire 722.9 unit. As leakage is also more prevalent on these transfer case-affixed variants (most notably from the rear seal), we do recommend periodically assessing for leaks as well as transmission fluid level; over-filling as well as under-filling will negatively affect the lifespan of your 722.9 transmission. Replacing the transmission due to fluid starvation will be expensive, but keeping an eye on fluid level and an eye out for leaks is free. Should “limp home” be triggered as a result of low fluid, top-up as soon as possible and check the level with a 722.9-specific dipstick to prevent lasting damage. If a bearing within the transfer case assembly is deemed the cause of failure, we offer a full reseal kit as well as a bearing replacement kit to get your vehicle back on the road. This has become increasingly common on these through the years and is more often than not the origin of a 722.9 4Matic issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYQb2YlJH-0&t=2s Common Mercedes 722.9 Transmission Trouble Codes As the TCU can produce over 100 fault codes and can store up to 16 at a time, you’ll need a scanner capable of reading them when attempting to troubleshoot a fault code. As fault codes are most commonly indicative of something relating to either the valve body or the conductor plate, here are some of the most common ones between the two: P0717 Input Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal P0718 Input / Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0700 Transmission Control System TCS Malfunction P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid ‘A’ Electrical P0778 Pressure Control Solenoid ‘B’ Electrical P0798 Pressure Control Solenoid ‘C’ Electrical P2716 Pressure Control Solenoid “D” Electrical P2725 Pressure Control Solenoid (E) P2734 Pressure Control Solenoid ‘F’ Electrical P2810 Pressure Control Solenoid ‘G’ Electrical P2759 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Solenoid Circuit Electrical P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor A Circuit No Signal U0101 No Communication With TCM These codes may seem daunting but can be decoded relatively easily. Any codes denoting the speed sensor as receiving an “intermittent” or “no signal” performance issue are simply referencing that the feedback from the input speed sensors on the transmission to the TCU are inconsistent or nonexistent. The sensors are integrated into the conductor plate, and replacing the entire unit will generally remedy the issue at hand, as denoted by our resident Mercedes expert Kyle Bascombe in his video comparison of the 722.6 and 722.9. Our above solenoid codes can denote an issue with individual solenoids or with the conductor plate. Symptoms of such an issue can include a shuddering under load from the transmission, as dirt clogs the solenoid over time and hinders function. Keep in mind that unlike the earlier 722.6, the TCU is integrated into the conductor plate and is VIN-coded to your personal vehicle; a replacement will require coding by a Mercedes-Benz specialist or dealer if you decide to avoid having the original unit rebuilt, or the transmission will be inoperable. Maintaining Your Mercedes 722.9 7G-Tronic Before discussing the maintenance of the 722.9, it is important to distinguish that there are effectively two variants of this transmission, distinguished by their engineering as an early unit and a late unit. Early units equipped in pre-June of  2010 models are commonly referred to as “Red Fluid” models. The later units are denominated as A89 “Blue Fluid” models. The two variants can be distinguished by the color of their fluid as well as their fill pipe (the Blue models use a green fill pipe, and the Red models use a black or white fill pipe) but can most easily be deciphered by the depth of the four dimples visible in the bottom of their transmission pan. The “Blue” models have significantly deeper ovular dimples. Regardless of the model, the procedure for servicing your 722.9 remains essentially the same; we have a full comprehensive DIY on our YouTube channel to coach you through your own 722.9 services. We also offer service kits for both red and blue units (denoted on our website in their listing title, noted as “LATE” or “EARLY”), but be aware that the 722.9 lacks an easy fill port and will require a pump to refill. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tfiowxUTBs Service Intervals “Blue” A89 722.9 Models: 06/21/2010 to 2015 (All vehicles MY2012 and on will be blue, 2011 will need to be checked by production date) Fluid Type: MB 236.15 (Blue) Service Interval: Every ~100,000 Km “Red” 722.9 Models: All 722.9 Pre-06/21/2010 (All vehicles through MY2010 will be red, 2011 will need to be checked by production date) Fluid Type: MB 236.14 (Red) Service Interval: Every ~60,000 Km Automatic Transmission Fluid: 9.9 L (10.5 US qt.) Mercedes-Benz 722.9 Modifications Performance Modifications Several ECU tuners for Mercedes models using the 722.9 will offer a TCU tune both alongside and separately from engine mapping. While sharper shifts and held gears can certainly help your Mercedes to move faster, the accelerated wear associated with harsh shift points and quick changes should also be considered; tuning the TCU would put the clutches at increased risk of failure. Reliability Modifications For the 722.9, we recommend running the latest SmartMediaTriple Filter. This unit offers increased filtration capabilities to remove contaminants from your 722.9 unit, helping to bolster longevity and reliability. On models pre-2012 (or vehicles known as “Early” models, pre-A89 variation and using red fluid), this upgraded and updated filter cannot be retrofitted without switching to the deeper transmission pan design present on the post-2012 A89 variants. We offer a retrofit kit containing everything you need to fit the new filter design onto your early 722.9 transmission. Fluid Capacities and Torque Specifications Fill Procedure (Also found in our 722.9 Service DIY): Add 5 quarts of appropriate transmission fluid for the vehicle Start the vehicle with the fill pump still mounted, and cycle the drive selector while keeping your foot on the brake. Remove the fill pump while the engine is running. If no fluid leaks out, add another half quart. If it does, allow it to self-level; once the unit stops leaking extra fluid, it is full. Allow the transmission fluid to reach 113 degrees Fahrenheit (or close to this, based on palpable pan temperature), and mount the drain plug back into the pan. Replace the transmission bolts and gasket as well as the fluid and filter; these are one-time-use items. Torque Specifications: Oil Pan Drain Plug (6mm Hex): 22 NM (16 Ft-Lbs) Oil Pan to Transmission Housing Bolts (E10): 4 NM (3 Ft-Lbs), plus 180 Degrees (One-Time Use) Torque Converter Drain Plug (M8): 10 NM (7 Ft-Lbs) Torque Converter Drain Plug (M10): 15 NM (11 Ft-Lbs) With that, you have everything you should need to know about Mercedes' incredibly popular seven-speed automatic gearbox. When it comes to servicing or parts, we can help with your 722.9 ownership there, too! Head over to our main site and shop all of the parts you'll need for proper ownership.

If I asked you to name a brand of motor oil, a number of brands might pop into your mind. Castrol, Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc. One thing these brands have in common is the ability to find them anywhere you go. The convenience is undeniable, and because you've used them for years, you have no reason to use anything else. On the flip side, what if there was something better than those brands that isn't much more expensive? A product that gave you just that little extra peace of mind? Sometimes, it's worth looking a little harder for a better product. Enter  LIQUI MOLY .   Who is LIQUI MOLY? LIQUI MOLY may be a relatively unknown brand in the Kenya, but the German company has been around since 1957 and, to this day, still manufactures all of their products there. Their first product, MoS2 oil additive , contained the solid lubricant molybdenum disulfide, which allowed engines to run for a short period of time without oil, which was perfect for emergency situations.   What is Molybdenum Disulfide? Molybdenum disulfide in its natural form is similar in feel to graphite–the same slippery stuff found on the tip of your pencil. MoS2 (the chemical composition), when tested for friction, has a coefficient value of <0.1. For comparison, Teflon on Teflon has a coefficient of 0.04, while steel on steel has a coefficient of 0.57. Alternative uses of MoS2 include gun lubrication and CV joints. And when you're talking engine friction, lower is ALWAYS better.   Want to learn more about Molybdenum and how it's being used in other LIQUI MOLY products? One of the most interesting ways is in Molygen. The molecules of Molybdate and tungstate combine into a homogeneous solid, with the tungstate being UV-reactive. This allows you to spot oil leaks with a UV flashlight when using Molygen.    What Makes LIQUI MOLY Motor Oil Different?  Your engine contains multiple moving components, such as the crankshaft, valves, and pistons. In addition to these movements, thousands of explosions occur in the combustion chambers every minute. Heat and friction in an engine, when not properly managed, lead to engine wear. The only way to reduce this is to make sure you choose the right engine oil. If you live somewhere that experiences snowy weather on a recurring basis, it's normal to start your car in extremely cold conditions. Zero degrees Fahrenheit is not that uncommon, and in these conditions, it's important that your engine oil is up to the task because cold weather will increase the viscosity of the oil, potentially causing dry running of your engine for a short period of time. In this case, the film your oil leaves behind is extremely important, as is its ability to flow at low temperatures. Multiply this over a number of cold starts with the incorrect oil, and you could end up with increased engine and oil pump wear. If you're the type of person to take your car out onto the track, you'll obviously be stressing the engine and all of its rotating components more than the average driver. Increased heat will cause oil to break down faster, and again, the constant high RPM demands consistent lubrication. Lastly, maybe you're the type who drives an older vehicle and is more conscious about engine wear, like me. With my engine nearing 460,000 kilometers, I find it important to always fill up with quality motor oil.     Keep in mind, today's contemporary engines are designed and manufactured to such high tolerances that choosing the wrong oil viscosity can legitimately be harmful to an engine. As a visual, imagine a pump that was designed to move water from one place to another. Now, imagine that same pump trying to move honey—it's just not going to work, and that pump will die very quickly. Modern engines that are spec'd with lower weight oils (0W20) may have situations of increased wear if a heavier weight oil is used (10W30). LIQUI MOLY MoS2 , which still contains molybdenum disulfide like their first product, has been formulated as an almost""end-all-be-all" engine oil. It has good cold-start behavior, as well as improved wear characteristics for modern engines. LIQUI MOLY MoS2 is also recommended for older Porsches with air-cooled engines. The extra additives are very effective at reducing wear for high-heat situations, another difficulty for oil manufacturers. High heat = lower viscosity of the oil and, in extreme cases, less lubrication. The MoS2 additive coats all moving components with a low-friction surface to mitigate any problems that may arise with the oil. When you're dealing with 40-50-year-old cars and engines, why not use the best?   How do You Choose The Right LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil For Your Car? There are a lot of engine oil options offered by LIQUI MOLY. You have different products with different additives, all of which are offered in various viscosities. Steffen Niemietz, Application Engineer at LIQUI MOLY's R&D department, stopped by our headquarters to help us better understand exactly which products we should be using in our cars. watch the video below.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry0bsDI9h-c&t=3s     LIQUI MOLY Makes More Than Just Motor Oils Up until now, we've only spoken about the motor oils that LIQUI MOLY is known for. Howe ver, another massive part of their business is fluid additives . They have spent countless hours and gone through thousands of formulations to create additives for your engine oil, cooling system, and even your fuel system. While we had Steffen in the shop, he walked us through all of their top additives. You find all of the additives and what they do here, or in the video below.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj80AFvcmzo&t=3s   LIQUI MOLY in Motorsports Generally, racing is a great place to advertise your products, not only for publicity but for the worse-than-real-world conditions race cars endure. Since 2015, LIQUI MOLY has been the sole provider of lubricants to all the Moto2 and Moto3 race teams. And they don't only support motorcycle racing; have you watched Formula 1 recently? We even run their oil in our VW GTI TCRs in TC America. The fact that LIQUI MOLY supports these racing series shows they are willing to stand behind a good product. Without proof of how good your products are, what's the point?